If you can handle the heat, I highly recommend a few walkable spots in Athens. Lycabettus Hill is an easy 30 minute hike out of Kolonaki that will quickly reward you with views of the city. Expect to climb stairs, but anyone in moderate shape can do this walk easily. The National Garden is also great for an afternoon stroll or picnic. Buy a donut or a koulouri (sesame ring) from a street vendor to munch on while you walk.

Philopappos Hill is another easy walk that can be done after visiting the Parthenon. Within 5 minutes you’ll pass by the Prison of Socrates and in another 5 you’ll make it to the Philopappos Monument where you’ll get great views of the Parthenon and the city. Additionally, I recommend everyone meander to the Themistoclean Ancient Wall after their Parthenon visit for outstanding photos without the crowds. This site is home to the literal birthplace of democracy and still has the stand where the Pericles orated and the first votes ever were cast.

Athens has plenty of pay-to-enter sites and I wouldn’t recommend visiting them all. While walking through the city you’ll be able to view the Temple of Zeus, the Agora, the Roman forum, and more, simply on your way to dinner. Often you’ll find local musicians playing some jazz outside the sites, which really adds to the atmosphere. You might also find a few people involved in common scams here, so just use your street smarts and don’t let anyone give you a bracelet. Personally, I’d recommend saving your money on these sites and just enjoy the views during your city explorations.

Outdoor Cinema

If you’re visiting Athens during the summer months, check out one of the many outdoor theaters in the city! I love the Thision for a fun date night or group outing. The theater shows a combination of old films and box office hits and has a concession stand with popcorn, treats, beer, and wine. Prices (like most things in Greece) are super reasonable, only 7 euros during the week and 9 on the weekend. I particularly love this outdoor theater as it has a view of the Parthenon and offers blankets for viewers if the night takes a colder turn.

Stavros Niarchos Foundation Cultural Center

Only a 15 minute drive from the city center, the Stavros Niarchos Foundation hosts lots of free outdoor activities and cultural events. Check their calendar for what’s on that week. They often have events specifically for children along with free pickleball, kayaking, and hands on art activities. The center is also home to the National Library and the Opera House.

Lake Vouliagmeni

Continuing your day outside of central Athens, drive south to visit Lake Vouliagmeni. This thermal lake is great for relaxing and entrance to the site includes access to lounge chairs on the docks. If you want a more luxurious experience, make sure you book a massage service and make a reservation at their restaurant. For a more casual hangout, order food lakeside and enjoy a leisurely swim.

While it is known as a thermal lake, do note the water is not overly warm, so plan to go on a hot enough day. Additionally, the lake is home to tiny fish that will nibble the dead skin off your feet if you sit in the shallow end near the docks, so be warned. The lake is open 8am-8pm and is 16 euros on weekdays, 19 on weekends.

Hoping you get plenty of warm weather and clear skies on your next trip!

Until the next page,

Ariana

Below I’ve included my top cultural recommendations for what to do while in Athens. Whether this is your whole trip or just a stopping point on your longer journey, make sure you check out a few of the highlights in the birthplace of democracy!

The Parthenon

No visit to Athens is complete without a visit to the Parthenon. Sitting on the Acropolis, this monument is the most visited spot in all of Greece. Built as a temple to the patron goddess of the city, Athena, the Parthenon has been incredibly important and symbolic throughout all of Greek history.

I’d recommend booking tickets in advance, but note that anyone receiving a discounted ticket will need to ensure they have proper documentation on site. Tickets prices have recently jumped to 30 euros per person, so definitely check if you qualify for a discounted rate. I also recommend printing your tickets to avoid any hassles.

The entrance for your time slot opens 15 minutes before the hour and the long line moves quickly once the gate is open. Early and late hours are best for beating the heat as there’s no shade on top of the Acropolis. And be warned, since it is an iconic destination, there will be massive crowds.

The Acropolis Museum

While the Parthenon itself is a must do for the views, the Acropolis Museum is where I’d recommend visiting to actually learn a bit about the history of the Parthenon. Opened in 2009, this museum was a direct response to the British Museum’s refusal to return the Parthenon marbles, stolen by Lord Elgin in the 1800s. The museum is beautifully curated and can easily be done in an hour and a half. The grounds under the museum are accessible with your museum ticket and hold the archeological remains of city life dating all the way back to the 4th century BC. The museum itself has artifacts from the site and surrounding areas, with the final exhibit being the top floor recreation of the Parthenon with pieces of the frieze, metopes, and pediments. The museum has very poignantly left empty spaces for the artifacts that remain in the British Museum, highlighting the continued wait for their arrival.

The National Archeological Museum

The National Archeological Museum sits at the top of my least favorite neighborhood, Omonia, but is worth the quick taxi ride for an exploration. The museum holds the largest collection of Hellenic art and artifacts in the country. The majority of the museum is dedicated to the Hellenic statue collection, but it also displays beautiful jewelry, ceramics, and mosaics from early Greek history. The museum is also home to the Antikythera machine, the oldest known analogue computer used to predict astrological movements. I’d recommend taking a taxi to and from the museum (avoid walking through Omonia) and keep an eye on their hours as they change frequently.

Panathenaic Stadium

Home to the first modern Olympics, hosted in 1896, the Panathenaic Stadium is a monument to the Olympic Games. Tickets to the stadium are 10 euros per person and include an audio guide to help give the space more context (though I found it a bit dry in its explanation). This is a fun visit for kids as you’re more than welcome to run the track and take your picture on the winner’s podium. A small indoor space at the back of the stadium also has a collection of Olympic posters and information about the modern Olympics.

Benaki Museum of Greek Culture

If you need to escape the crowds at the traditionally touristic places, I’d recommend visiting the Benaki Museum. Located across the street from the National Gardens, this small collection shares pieces of Greek history from the Hellenic period through modern times. Art, decor, jewelry, and clothing are all on display here and visitors can learn about Greece during the Ottoman empire and the War of Independence. Visit on Thursdays from 6pm-midnight for free admission!

Basil & Elise Goulandris Foundation

For an even more off the beaten path museum experience, I highly recommend the Basil and Elise Goulandris Foundation. Built from the private collection of the Goulandris family, this museum hosts iconic pieces from famous 19th and 20th century artists like Van Gogh and Degas, in addition to a unique collection of contemporary artwork from local Greek artists. The foundation also rotates their temporary exhibit which features work from currently active Greek artists. Tickets are 12 euros and can be purchased easily on arrival.

The National Gallery

For more Greek art from the 19th and 20th century, head over to the National Gallery just off the Evagalismos subway station. The museum features portraits of notable Greeks as well as beautiful landscape work. The current temporary exhibit from Panayiotis Tetsis has many of his best pieces depicting Athens, Syros, and Hydra, three of his homes throughout his life.

National Museum of Contemporary Art

Another museum favorite is the National Museum of Contemporary of Art. I find the work they display incredibly thought provoking and I particularly enjoyed their Modern Love exhibition from 2024. Though some exhibits can be hit or miss, tickets are only 10 euros, with most people qualifying for the 5 euro discount.

Athens offers endless opportunities to explore and learn more about Greek culture and history. These are just a few of my most recommended activities, but don’t hesitate to get even further off the beaten path!

Happy travels,

Ariana

The selection of alcoholic and non alcoholic beverages in Athens is extensive. Greek wines, in my humble opinion, can be quite good and are regarded as up-and-coming in the wine world. Two varieties you’ll see on most menus include Malagousia, which profile more floral, and Assyrtiko, which lean fruitier and more acidic. Unless you have a love of tree resin flavors, avoid the Retsina, you’ll thank me later. Reds and roses from the Peloponnesus are decent as well, but I always recommend whites during the hot travel months.

Ouzo is one of the local beverages of choice, flavored like licorice it’s a clear liquor that turns milky white once an ice cube is added. Local restaurants might also invite you to try Tsiporou or Metaxa, a white and brown brandy respectively. Mastika, a liquor made using pine resin, is also popular among locals. All of these liquors are meant to be sipped, often at the end of a meal.

If you’re looking for non alcoholic options most bars and restaurants offer fun mocktails with whatever fruit and flowers are in season. I also HIGHLY recommend house lemonades with a dash of mint and a bubbly lemon Fanta with any gyro you order.

Whatever your drink preference, I hope you find something that speaks to you from my favorites below!

Wine Bars

Two of my favorite wine bars, the Drunky Goat and Warehouse CO2, sit side-by-side on a street corner at the intersection of Syntagma and Plaka. The Drunky Goat is perfect if you need a break from the sun, with cool wine cellar vibes accented with portraits of, you guessed it, goats drinking wine. They offer a nice selection of Greek wines and will let you sample anything you want before ordering a glass. They also have excellent small bites and dip platters to snack on. The great prices and free dessert keep me coming back time after time.

Warehouse CO2 just across the street focuses on sparkling wines from around the world. They have a nice selection of Greek sparkling wines, but feature Champagne, Prosecco, and Cava as well. Mostly outdoor seating, this place is popular with locals who stop by to people watch while enjoying a glass of bubbly.

Heteroclito is another Syntagma based favorite, though the atmosphere here is much more Parisian inspired, with small cafe tables facing out towards the main road. Their claim to fame is the 200+ labels of Greek wine offered on their menu. They provide light bites as well, but most visitors come for the vibe and a glass of wine.

With a nice selection of Greek wines and very helpful sommeliers, Materia Wine Bar is a Koukaki favorite. This wine bar also offers light bites outside of the traditional Greek taverna fare. Try the cauliflower and don’t miss their fresh baked sourdough bread that goes in the oven the moment you order it!

Another spot worth visiting in Koukaki is Hippy Hippo. This restaurant is frequented almost entirely by locals, but if you’ve ventured out to the Contemporary Art Museum it’s only a 2 minute walk away. Hippy Hippo is a prime example of breakfast and brews combined. Technically a cafe, it serves brunch, lunch, all day coffee and wines. Most patrons are sipping frappes or wine, smoking cigarettes, and leisurely catching up with friends. This is definitely a favorite among young people in the neighborhood, especially on the weekend.

Cocktails

Any quick google of “Athens bars” will tell you that two of the best bars in the world exist in central Athens. According to mixology experts, The Clumsies and Baba Au Rum are worth a visit for any cocktail fan. Having tried both I’m a bit skeptical of their rankings. Both bars host an overwhelming amount of tourists and are not locally frequented spots, which usually means the atmosphere isn’t what I’m looking for when I travel. The Clumsies drink menu was too avant garde for my taste, with greek salad, vinegar, and pine tree flavors all making bold appearances. If you want to try a truly unusual drink, this is what they’re known for. They made solid classic drinks (pisco sour and gin gimlet were both decent), but nothing that felt “world famous”. The atmosphere is a bit reminiscent of a hotel lobby, which I think is the homey, quiet feeling the designers wanted to generate. For me, it was a miss, though I’m glad I tried it myself.

Baba Au Rum, on the other hand, buzzed with noise and energy on arrival. Rum is the liquor of choice here and bartenders chat and flirt away with customers. Jungle motifs decorate the bar, and despite the hoards of very loud tourists, we still thought it was fun. Drinks were good, but again, nothing world famous here in my opinion.

My favorite spot in town is Drupes Spritzeria, a local Spritz and charcuterie spot that’s truly a hole in the wall. Closer to Koukaki, this bar has a chill atmosphere, with only a few tables and standing spots outside the storefront. If you stop by on a weekday or early in the afternoon it’s calm and great for a catch up with friends over a drink. HOWEVER, I recently learned this is THE watering hole for local young professionals on a Saturday night. Suddenly my favorite chill bar had become the town hot spot for spritzes and meeting up. Still a fun outing, but you’ll definitely get better service (and fuller drinks) during the work week.

Another hot spot for tourists that might be worth a visit is Brettos Bar, located in the heart of Plaka. Don’t let the location fool you though, this bar is actually Athen’s oldest distillery. The back wall of this teeny bar is incredibly instagramable, with hundreds of the distillery’s colorful spirits on display. Make sure to stop by during an off hour if you want to guarantee a table inside. Drinks here are okay, but truthfully it’s the photos most people come for.

Rooftop and Jazz Bars

Another Athens staple is the rooftop bar. Because nothing in the city can be built higher than the Acropolis, lots of hotels and restaurants created roof top venues with excellent views of the Parthenon. One I’ve enjoyed in the past is Couleur Locale. This rooftop bar in Monastiraki is popular with a younger crowd. DJs play sets on the covered roof and guests can order both food and beverages. A for Athens is another popular rooftop. Ensure you make a reservation in advance here for brunch or drinks though, as the bar is part of the Monastiraki hotel. I’d say rooftop bars are worth a visit for the vibes, but you’ll definitely get better (and cheaper) drinks at local restaurants.

If jazz is your thing Afrikana is another favorite I’d recommend, however, it is a bit off the beaten path in the Keramikos neighborhood. This neighborhood turns into the club scene at night and has pockets that are a bit sketchier for walking in the evening. If you’re staying in one of hostels or hotels nearby, however, I’d definitely recommend a visit. Cover charges are 10 euros per person and quality of jazz artists here has been very impressive. Sometimes locals bring their instruments along as well and join in near the end of the night.

Okupa Kitchen & Listening Bar in Psirri is also perfect for enjoying a drink alongside some live music. When jazz quartets aren’t performing, expect listening bar DJs to curate vinyl collections of soft sounds. Attached to the OKUPA hotel, this lobby bar has ample outdoor seating and no cover charges. The restaurant has a rotating menu of seasonal cocktails, a small wine list, and offers coffee and food as well. This is a personal favorite for a midafternoon outing.

If beer is more your style, Athens is home to a handful of micro breweries. Blame the Sun and Strange Brew Taproom are both popular with locals in the Koukaki area. Mythos, Manos, and Alpha are the Greek household names you’ll find around town as well.

My list of Athens bars is far from complete, I already know when I return Galaxy Bar and Jazz in Jazz are two on my ever-growing list of places to try. If you make it to one of these bars, or have suggestions of what else I should explore, let me know! Until then, yamas (cheers)!

Ariana

As a Greek American I have some high standards when it comes to Greek cuisine. From a young age, I was spoiled with the best of Yia Yias’ cooking and Greek bake sale treats. And while there are some dishes that will simply never outperform my mother’s cooking, Athens does have the best of the best when it comes to Greek cuisine. From traditional tavernas boasting produce picked at the family farm that morning to modern bistros innovating Greek classics with international twists, this city has it all. I’ve included a list of my must try restaurants below, as well as some notes on what’s worth the hype and what to miss.

Koukaki

Koukaki is one of my favorite neighborhoods in Athens. Close enough to the center that you can still walk to all the must do attractions, but far enough removed that, if you pick right, you’re eating with the local crowd. The neighborhood is a bit younger, but still has the classic Athens feel, which you’ll find tracks with the restaurant scene.

Lolo’s Taverna

This classic Greek restaurant is crowded with locals and the occasional tourist who has meandered south in Koukaki, but I only waited a few moments before being whisked away to my table. Seating is mostly outdoors with plenty of interesting people watching to be had on the patio. Lolo’s offers all the traditional mezedes, or small plates, you could want. If you’re not afraid of garlic, try their tzatziki, and definitely order the zucchini fries and a Greek salad. Table wine is unbeatable here at only 5 euros for a liter and the classic dishes are some of the best AND best priced I’ve seen in the city.

Onos Taverna

Onos Taverna offers the same Greek classics in a slightly more elevated atmosphere. Though only a 5 minute walk from the acropolis museum, this restaurant feels hidden from the tourist crowds. Highly recommend sharing a few starters and a gyro plate. Spicy feta, dolmadakia (stuffed grape leaves), and saganaki (flaming cheese) are all winners here.

Materia Wine Bar

With a nice selection of Greek wines and very helpful sommeliers, Materia wine bar is a Koukaki favorite. The restaurant offers light bites outside of the traditional Greek taverna fare. Try the cauliflower and don’t miss their fresh baked sourdough bread that goes in the oven the moment you order it!

Syntagma

Birdman

My number one must try restaurant in Syntagma is unexpectedly Japanese food! Birdman is a reservations required, trendy bar and yakitori grill serving twists on Japanese fare. You must try the beef nigiri (preferably the one with truffle) and the grilled street corn is to die for. Most seats at the restaurant are either outside on the patio or at the bar inside. I’d suggest eating indoors at this restaurant, due to the high traffic of Syntagma and the bartenders’ fun banter. Get them to whip you up a Japanese inspired cocktail, I’d recommend the elderflower, yuzu spritz. This is a pricy restaurant by Athens standards, though compared to an outing in NYC this is an average night out. Music at Birdman rotates between funky jazz sets and the occasional intense rap, so you never know what the scene will be that day!

Ella Greek Cooking

Another classic Greek fare favorite. In bustling Syntagma it’s nice to find a taverna with reasonable prices and high quality food. Ella Greek Cooking is one of the recommended restaurants according to the Hotel Grand Bretagne, Athens’ most luxurious accommodations down the road. Can’t stop at a taverna without a Greek salad and I’d also recommend souvlaki here.

La Greche

Best gelato in the city by far! After traveling in Italy extensively I’m pretty picky about gelato in Europe. La Greche has amazing quality ice cream and unique flavors that include Italian and Greek favorites. I recommend the salted caramel, tiramisu (with cake included), and baklava options.

Plaka

Plaka is the heart of tourist Athens. Walking on the most popular streets here makes me feel a bit claustrophobic between the ear bud wearing tour groups and shops all selling the same handful of overly perfumed soaps. But Plaka attracts tourists for a reason - it’s highly photogenic with the beautiful paved streets backing up against the foot of the Acropolis. While the majority of restaurants in this area are overpriced and overhyped, there are a few not so hidden gems I’d recommend.

Geros Tou Moria

On the classic touristic street on the west side of Plaka lies Geros Tou Moria, which is a traditional taverna serving fan favorites. Expect classic Greek music (live, if you’re lucky) and maybe some dancing from waitstaff and patrons alike. On a good weather day their upstairs patio is a great place to take in the ambiance. I recommend the stuffed tomatoes, meatballs, and stifado (beef stew). Be warned on busy days service isn’t always the fastest here.

Taverna Saita

Classic Greek food again here at this taverna mixed in amongst the other tourist locations. But make sure you head to this one, actually frequented by locals and recommended to me by several Athenian natives. Your wallet will thank you as well for avoiding the Plaka mark up.

Psirri

Known for its incredible graffiti, Psirri sits on the edge of tourist Monastiraki, but with far fewer crowds. This is an excellent budget neighborhood to stay in with lots of small hotels that are still walkable to the city center. Safe and well stocked with affordable food options, I’d highly suggest checking out this neighborhood.

I Avli Tis Idylis

Another taverna favorite, I Avli Tis Idylis doesn’t even bother with English names, knowing their cooking will bring in customers all the same. Stop here for excellent service and a huge variety of mezedes to start your meal. I love bringing my groups of students here and ordering one of everything for us to try. Don’t be surprised if a free dessert or shot of local tsipouro ends up on your table at the end of the meal.

Sarri’s Souvlaki

If you want a good old fashion gyro, this is THE stop. Sarri’s is high quality gyro perfection, with an unbeatable price. Grab a beer and make sure you order your gyro as is, with tzatziki, onion, tomato, and french fries. Check out the Athenian Deli across the street afterwards for some great take home culinary goods as well.

Kolonaki

Kolonaki is the poshest area in Athens, during the day you’ll find it filled with business people in suits, stopping for a quick coffee before returning to work. This neighborhood has some of the most expensive housing in the city along with the handful of designer shops every capital seems to host. While on the whole it’s a sleepier corner of Athens, it also has a few hidden gems of restaurants.

Alex the Fresh Pasta Bar

With a small, rotating menu Alex the Fresh Pasta Bar continues to impress. I enjoy their mix of Italian and Greek ingredients and always al dente pasta classics. They really stick to what they know here, so don’t expect to see much else on the menu besides really good pasta and a crisp glass of wine.

Samba Coffee

As a Kolonaki bonus, I’d also suggest any coffee lovers make their way to Samba Coffee. Coffee is Greece is often overly sweet and intense (glyko!), but Samba coffee roasts their beans to perfection. This is a typical Greek style Kafenion in that most coffee consumers stand around outside chatting before they take off for their next meeting. They offer pastries that are delicious as well. Highly recommend the lime cake or banana muffins.

At risk of overwhelming the reader I’ll stop here, but just know my list of Athens favorites is nowhere near complete! Every visit I add new must try’s to my list and explore other neighborhoods as well. Let me know if there are more neighborhoods you’d like me to cover (Monastiraki or Exarchia for example) and I’ll add more recommendations for your reading pleasure.

Hoping a few of these make your list for your upcoming adventures!

Until the next page,

Ariana

Subscribe now

Hello dear readers,

For those of you who have stumbled across my page, I wanted to take a moment to introduce myself! While I intend this substack to be my collection of precious travel recommendations immortalized for friends and family seeking trip planning advice, I realize a few strangers might wander in as well. Whoever you are reading this, welcome! Let me share a few personal details that might elucidate why I have so many travel itineraries and why you can learn from them!

My name is Ariana and I currently work as an overseas educator. Over the last seven years I’ve traveled the world with groups of students, exploring every continent through culture, arts, food, and history. Working in experiential education has been one of the greatest adventures of my life so far and has allowed me countless incredible experiences. While at work I’ve snorkeled with sharks in the Fijian islands, shared myths and legends while climbing the acropolis, meditated at a Buddhist monastery in Korea, and danced in the rain in a near empty Coliseum. Traveling with students has allowed me to get truly off the beaten path and connect with amazing local partners who have shared their favorite pieces of their cities with me. And through all this I’ve seen the formative power that travel has on young people, helping them develop confidence, open their minds to new perspectives, gain compassion, and generate resilience. There is no greater gift than the gift of travel!

My family instilled my passion for exploration at a young age and was able to gift me incredible experiences by allowing me the opportunity to travel as well. It helps that I come from a family of travelers of course, with both of my parents having grown up abroad. Though my Dad is the actual Greek of the family, my mom spent many years of her childhood living between Kavala and Rhodes (in addition to some time in Liberia!) My first travel memories include a visit to Greece to meet our extended family, followed by adventures to France (we stayed in a castle?!) Morocco (we camped in the Sahara?!), the Netherlands, Canada and more.

While in school I took traveling to a new level, studying four languages to get the most mileage while abroad. I did an exchange program in China and accepted a scholarship to university that included study abroad programs in Mexico and Peru. And somewhere between those adventures I found my way to Italy and Greece as well.

All this to say, I’ve spent most of my life traveling (including two years living fully out of my suitcase!) and I have some stories to share! Mostly I intend this space to be an easy place to access my lists of recommendations for travel destinations. Expect Japan, Greece, Italy, Taiwan, Korea, Australia, Fiji, and Hawai’i to make appearances soon. I plan to share the food highlights and unique experiences that made my travels memorable. Hopefully I’ll use this space to shout out some amazing local partners you should contact and the community can their knowledge as well. My goal is to share my honest feedback with you and let more people in on the exploration secrets you need to have the best trip. Thanks for coming along for the ride :)

Until the next page,

Ariana